I replaced my bleeder block with a brand new part from the stealers & that also leaked past the bleed nipple threads! EDIT - now not returning unless you stick your toe under it. There not a lot of space in there. You could damage the clutch, the clutch fork, or the transmission. I do not believe I bent the pedal.Any instructions available? This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. I don't know if this is still an on going recall,it might be worth contacting RCS to see what the situation is. Buttoned everything up Flushed out a few more times. Takes longer to bleed the system than anything else. The arm gofaster mentioned is functioning as it should, and is being sucked back into the master cylinder, which is pulling the pedal. In the following overview, you will find the most common problems for the Renault Master, for which Renault has announced a recall through the EU Rapex system. I would give it a bleed still,removing any air in the system will only improve the pedal and maybe prolong the failing of the master cylinder. My pedal is doing the exact same thing as the original poster, ONLY WHEN RUNNING (has vacuum). So last week i noticed my clutch pedal not returning fully. It seems to have cured my problems but I am not sure how well it will perform long term. click? You must log in or register to reply here. My Sachs CMC was £49.80 at ECP & Sachs was factory fit by VW. Pedal wasn't returning all the way, but car was driving fine and I could retrieve the pedal with my foot. it would stop about halfway up and i needed to pull it up the remaining distance. The problem is the clutch pedal intermittently drops to the floor? This is not recommended for shared computers. One day when I was releasing my foot off the clutch felt a pop when the clutch came up an additional distance and made contact with my foot. It is connected to a pedal on the floor by either a cable or a hydraulic link. When engine is off, pumping the brake pedal will eventually allow the brake pedal to return back. I've replaced the clutch master cylinder twice. Also check your clutch peddle hasn't broken where the CMC rod connects to it as this can be a common issue. Never figured out why but it hasn't happened again for a long time. We use data about you for a number of purposes explained in the links below. From what I have found out via various searches it could be the DMF, a bearing housing wearing in the gearbox needing a shim, the master cylinder, or a complete new clutch. It's not too much of a problem because we have got used to occasionally having to lift the pedal back up with your foot. She has pulled it back up manually, and it has operated fine for the rest of the drive. I had nothing to reference it to. If it is empty, you have an external leak. Well, the clutch hydraulics are only from the brake master cylinder to the clutch slave, so any air in the brake plumbing would not affect the clutch. For one, theres not vacuum at the clutch master cylinder. … 2 month old 97 tdi, just pull it up w/ foot and keep gettin' it! Any history on the clutch, recently replaced, unknown, etc? I've just brought a Renault trafic 115 on a 2010 plate it's done 28k. The clutch pedal has just started to return slowly, clutch works fine when pedal returns. Preparing the vehicle to check the clutch pedal for a failed release bearing If the problem is corrected in time, it may not affect the overall reliability of your Renault Master. Renault Scenic (2003 - 2009) - 2004 1.9dCi Clutch pedal failure. End result was the Master Cylinder located behind the clutch pedal had failed after leaking for a while. Order yours today! So I would deffo start with bleeding the clutch fluid. When the engine is on, no amount of using the brake (two feet required: toes on left foot to pull pedal back up), will make it return on its own. It could also be a blockage in the clutch hydraulic line (actually very unlikely). When I boght my truck, the clutch petal was not returning all the way but I did not know it. or is stuck either halfway down or fully ? new problem has arisen with the clutch though , after loading the van the clutch pedal just lost pressure , just about driveable, had new master cylinder fitted bled the system and ran fine for 50 -60 miles until is was loaded again, then same problem clutch not returning and little or no pressure . Warning: Do not attempt to start the engine and drive the vehicle with the clutch pedal stuck all the way to the floor. Also, I just changed the clutch slave cylinder and bled the system then. At 61,000 miles and four and a bit years old, I am not particularly impressed with this. Page 1 of 2 - Clutch Pedal Not Returning - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: ok on the way to work today no problem. uk-mkivs.net is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Warning: Do not attempt to start the engine and drive the vehicle with the clutch pedal stuck all the way to the floor. By continuing to browse our site you agree to our use of data and cookies. It took me a little longer than a few minutes. Yesterday, 3,000 miles after new clutch installed, same problem - clutch pedal straight to floor, will not return, and gears will not engage. If it is full, there may an internal leak in the clutch master cylinder. jumped in the car to go home straight away it does real right. What steps should be taken if the clutch of a Renault Koleos has to be ‘pumped’ before the pedal comes back up? You could damage the clutch, the clutch fork, or the transmission. If there are no visible leaks from the slave cylinder, the clutch master cylinder on the firewall likely has an internal leak. Best way is to reverse pressure bleed back to the CMC. My car has exactly the same thing, when I release the clutch it doesn't quite return all the way back up, and I can use my foot to lift it another 1/2 inch or so. Now that the master cylinder is replaced, and I have all the air bled out (the line is transparent and I have been at it for hours), I am still unable to get my clutch to operate. My last failed CMC was an FTE unit. A fully functioning CMC will allow you to gravity bleed with the peddle up. uk-mkivs.net is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG. Let the system settle & then do a gravity bleed of a small amount to remove any last lingering air from the slave cylinder which on an 02M box is set up in such a way that air should rise out of it & into the top of the bleeder block ready for bleeding out. That happened on the drive to work. Last year in November when it belonged to friends, it had a complete new clutch and Bearing/slave Cylinder fitted by a Renault Dealer, it has now covered 10k since fitting. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. « Reply #8 on: June 01, 2014, 04:46:55 PM » you need plenty of space under so you can drop the gearbox out. The arm gofaster mentioned is functioning as it should, and is being sucked back into the master cylinder, which is pulling the pedal. Anyways, the clutch and transmission worked very well before i decided to replace the master cylinder before it left me stranded somewhere. This has been a problem for years, just want to fix it. As I'm sure you know, air can be compressed & also expands when hot & contracts when cold. There's quite a bit of pedal travel before I am able to start the car.The pedal doesn't feel solid and I can't engage the gears. Re: Clutch Pedal Stays Down Not Returning - Stuck ! Page 1 of 2 - Clutch Pedal Not Always Returning To Position - posted in Technical Section For MK1 & MK2: We have experienced this problem of the clutch pedal staying down but the clutch is not disengaged after taking foot pressure off the pedal since we had the car! The cable and the hydraulic link provide the auto-return so that after you press the pedal it comes back to its proper position and the clutch re-engages. Recently changed the clutch master cylinder on a Mazda 6 2004 and when trying to bleed the system found that the clutch pedal will not return to the up position. The mechanic said it could be either the master or slave cylinder. and where is it supose to be located? In summer you prob won't notice this apart from a slightly less direct peddle feel. Hopefully it isn't anything serious, got a few other small issues to sort out already. clutch pedal will not fully return when depressed i have had 2 new master cylinders fitted but still the problem persists i have bled the system time and time again there is no loss of fluid, the new master cylinder is working fine can any one give any advice thank you A bad throwout bearing can be a major headache in stop and go traffic, making horrible noises every time the clutch pedal is depressed. Part 1 of 4: Diagnosing a clutch pedal on the floor due to failed release bearing. The pedal not returning is usually a master cylinder fault,although your car should have been recalled and fitted with a new cylinder and a spring on the pedal. Exclusive uk-mkivs stickers now available from Syco Graphix. My foot is paralyzed and I have to use my heel to depress the clutch. Replaced the fork, the one that was in it had alot of play, i decided not to shim ### i want to fix it right, but i did notice a slight change, like the clutch is disengaging more but not fully, still cant get it in gear and the pedal is still half way down. Basically, the bleeder block is a bad design & can leak small amounts of fluid past the bleed nipple threads & then suck small amounts of air back in (also if your CMC is buggered & won't flow fluid down to the bleeder block & slave cylinder properly as mine were this will be much worse). UPDATE: With the help of my wife I was able to flush the clutch and there was some air but not a lot. I had trouble with the bolt on the petal side of bracket. Has been doing this for a good month or so now, and I assumed it wasn't anything major? If there is a hydraulic leak or malfunction, the pedal stays down. New master cylinder and slave installed. (doh) Also, I can reproduce the problem by holding the clutch at 1/2 way with engine either running, or stopped. On the way back, i lost all pedal pressure but managed to get it in neutral and we were able to push it home. Does your clutch pedal in your Focus crunch? For one, theres not vacuum at the clutch master cylinder. My partners 2007 147 1.6 TS seems to have a clutch hydraulic issue. leak fluid? There does not appear to be a return spring on the pedal that is missing. The pedal has no resistance. My clutch pedal does not return all the way up. Good luck. I've had this a few times, have had to manually lift the pedal up. As a result - after a while of pushing out fluid & sucking in air via the clutch bleed nipple you will end up with air in the clutch hydraulic system. This is happening on one of our B4s also. Hence the pedal sticking to the floor when the fluid leaks out or looses it's ability to be pressurized (constant pressure) between the master cylinder and slave cylinder. For recalls and faults found in the UK scroll down. Content on uk-mkivs.net is generated by its users. When a Renault clutch has to be pumped to bring the pedal back up, it indicates a problem with either the master or the slave cylinder in the form of air being pulled into the system or just no resistance. Literally minutes to change, no special tools. Clutch pedal won't fully return? As i was changing my clutch master cylinderon my 97 jetta tdi a spring fell on the floor part num 721 421 does anyone have any idear where it goes? I've broken and fixed that, GoFaster, I am about to go check what you've stated. A temporary solution at best but they both drove in! Thought maybe a problem then with the slave cylinder so I did remove it and attached tubing to determine flow. JavaScript is disabled. clucth feel right on the way down but is only returning 1/3 of the way. We look at places that can cause your clutch pedal to not fully return to rest. It was the master cylinder. (doh) Also, I can reproduce the problem by holding the clutch at 1/2 way with engine either running, or stopped. Would bushings and spring fix this? Golf MK4 AUM | 150BHP | 2.5" Piper Downpipe and Sports Cat | Anniversary Milltek Cat Back | R32 Style Front Bumper | Genuine R32 Rear Bumper | Wellycooler Core | N249 Delete | OEM Projectors | BBS RC 330s | Anniversary Brushed Aluminum Trim. The pedal stays on the floor because there is a spring under compression on the clutch pedal that helps push the pedal to the floor. Same thing happens to me! yes this is the spring, the only thing is it a cruise control spring or is it for the clutch? The master cylinder has an over - under spring which does not return the pedal to the upright position on it's own. took me about 8 hours to do over a weekend on a mates garages 4 poster. I live 1 mile from our business so it wasn't too bad. The master cylinder did the trick. If nothing comes out when you crack the bleed nipple then your CMC may have a dodgy seal. The spring pressure from the pressure plate returns the pedal when you lift your leg. On older mechanical linkages, lack of periodic lubrication can lead to high effort or binding in pivots or cables, or a pedal that does not return smoothly. Ok, I was incorrect in my above post. Most cars today have an interlock on the clutch, so you're prevented from starting the car if the clutch is engaged. I have replaced 2 clutch master cylinders & the clutch bleeder block (mine is an 02M 6 speed 'box). I have used some PTFE tape on the threads, taking care not to wrap any where the nipple seats into the bleeder block. Symptoms were literally none before today. If I recall right with both of them you could lift the pedal with a toe underneath the pedal and it would spring right back up. Whats the fix? Total clutch failure this afternoon depositing SWMBO, my two daughters, the family hound and me at the roadside for the first time in our ownership. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=197574. my hydraulic clutch on my 03 Renault traffic 1.9 dci keeps losing pressure? I wanna get it fixed before it doesn`t work at all, like yours. I changed the slave first, because it was cheaper, and while the boot did look crappy and cracked up, it did not fix the problem. had to pull the clutch pedal up to engage the clutch great fun driving home. Over the last week or so the clutch pedal has got stuck to the floor when she first turns the car on. We use cookies to improve your experience on this website and so that ads you see online can be tailored to your online browsing interests. Clutch started going bad and I was really bummed since it had less than 50K miles. You currently have javascript disabled. When it starts to get cold though the clutch peddle starts to not fully return, often only fully returning when the engine has warmed up & the air in the system has expanded & re-pressurised the system. Several functions may not work. If none of that works then you may need to look at your slave cylinder - which is a 'box out job on an 02M but is a lot easier if you have a 5 speed 'box. made driving interesting but possible, technique was to NOT fully depress the clutch pedal to the floor. ?worried about expensive repairs? Check the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir. I have had this problem on & off for the last 2 yrs. Lasted a few weeks like this, then the pedal hit the floor and stayed there. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thanks in advance, Rick. Operated fine for the last 2 yrs the peddle up connected to a pedal on the with! 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